November is the month of the year when I like to travel, to escape from the autumnal greyness. This time, the destination that awaits me is Madeira, an island in Portugal located in the Atlantic Ocean, 980 km from Lisbon and 600 km from Morocco. I went there to meet my friend Sascha, a German I met on my last cycling trip to Finale Ligure in Italy. With five other German friends of his, we stayed in a house in the village of Jardim do Mar. Jérémy, a Frenchman now living in Madeira, from Bikulture took care of all the logistics: airport transportation, house rental, bike guide, shuttles.
As for finding a direct flight to Madeira, forget the project! Three flights to take via New York and London for a duration of 18 hours. At my last stopover, I only had one hour to make my transfer. I managed to catch my last plane, but my bike and luggage couldn't make it. So I did my first day of cycling with an oversized rental bike, as well as borrowed clothes and shoes.
Madeira's landscapes are breathtaking: sea views on one side, steep cliffs with terraced crops on the other. Mountain biking can only be done from 700 meters above sea level, as the difference in altitude before this level is too great. The highest point on the island is around 1800 meters above sea level. So we often start a descent in the clouds, with wind and a little rain, to finish in the sun and warmth.
Some areas were devastated by forest fires this summer, giving a strange landscape with black burnt vegetation with bright green ferns on the ground. In the same day, we rode in green landscapes, pine forests, a humid jungle with huge ferns and other more desert landscapes with cacti. The "trails" are also diversified, mainly in "singletracks". Natural trails, with rocks and roots, steep and fast trails and dirt, some sections with drops and built jumps. The dual suspension enduro bike is required. Also, there are no indications for the trails, maps or applications available and the climbs between descents are often an hour or more. The ideal is to do business with a company like Bikulture which provides a guide and shuttles to discover all the trails on the island, but also the best restaurants!Sandokan Enduro , a five-stage enduro, with transfers of 45 minutes to 2 hours of climbing. A real endurance test where you have to manage your energy to achieve the best times on demanding downhill courses. To add to the difficulty, we had terrible conditions all day: rain, wind and slippery courses transformed by mud. I am very satisfied with my results with a second place, between the Portuguese champion of 2016 and that of 2015. My first international podium and the satisfaction of being able to compare myself to European riders.
Overall, I loved my trip to Madeira. Exceptional landscapes, trails that satisfy my need for adrenaline, the atmosphere of the islands where the pace always seems more relaxed! The food… yum! The beef, the octopus, the squid, the tuna, the pregos, huge sandwiches with a steak inside, the tartlets, the espressos, the Portuguese wine. Not to mention the local alcohol, the poncha, a mixture of local rum, freshly squeezed oranges and lemons and honey, which enhances the end of each of our riding days and some evenings that stretch out without us seeing the hours go by. In short, I would go back tomorrow morning!
PHOTO CREDIT: SASCHA BAM-BERG
TEXT: AUDRÉE VAILLANCOURT